As the Kerala State Government plans to set up of a Toddy Corporation, to revive the sector, stakeholders wait for further details
Photos: The Mullapanthal Toddy shop; glass of
toddy
By
Shevlin Sebastian
There
are several Formica-topped tables with red plastic chairs inside the
Mullapanthal Toddy shop, in Tripunithura, a suburb of Kochi. The fans hang down
from long rods. On most tables there is a brown earthenware pot which contains
toddy. As expected, the aroma is that of masala and spices. Through the large
grilled windows, you can see the road outside. Buses, cars and auto-rickshaws
whiz past, their horns blaring.
The
crowd on this weekday afternoon is decent when you consider that an Omicron
pandemic is raging in the state. There are families, a group of girls and a few
men, who are sipping down the white-coloured toddy. Many are having tapioca
with fish. Other items on the menu include squid, duck, chicken, prawns, beef,
and crabs.
The
mood is upbeat but not so for owner Vijaykumar, 55, who has been running this
shop for the past 35 years. “The sale of toddy has been going down,” he said.
“Yesterday, I only sold 100 litres of toddy. People come now mostly for the
food.”
Vijaykumar
gave away 26 shops for the workers to run, because he could not make a profit.
Now he only runs three shops.
One
major reason is that many bars have sprung up in the vicinity. When he started
out, there were only three bars in a 15-km radius at Tripunithura. “Now there
are 20 bars,” says Vijaykumar. “Most people prefer to go to bars, because you
get a high much faster with whisky, beer and brandy. In my experience, as soon
as a bar comes up near a toddy shop, it immediately experiences losses and has
to shut down.”
In
the nearby town of Mulanthuruthy, Vijaykumar was running a toddy shop and had
sales of 300 litres a day. When a bar and two outlets of the government-run
Kerala State Beverages Corporation opened, the daily sales at his shop fell
drastically.
His
labour expenses are high. At his Mullapanthal Toddy shop, Vijaykumar has 27 people
on his payroll. They include 14 women in the kitchen, apart from servers and
cleaners. “But nowadays, I call up the entire staff only on weekends,” he said.
“That’s when we have good business.”
Meanwhile,
the State government has announced that it has plans to set up a Toddy
Corporation. The corporation will regulate the functioning of the 5000-odd
toddy shops. It will buy and distribute toddy. The corporation also has plans
to hand over the shops to workers’ cooperatives.
Asked
about this initiative by the state government, Vijaykumar says that he has not
yet heard the details of what they are planning to do. “My concern is whether I
will be able to buy the toddy as I do now,” he said. “Will there be too much
bureaucracy that will slow down the process?”
Another
problem is that landlords are reluctant to rent out premises to toddy shops.
“The people in the locality will object,” said Vijaykumar. “I hope the state
government can solve this problem.”
Asked
about the clientele for toddy, he said they ranged in age from the mid-thirties
to the sixties. “Many of them are locals,” he said. “There are labourers,
transport drivers, and office workers.”
KP
Murali is the secretary of the Tripunithura branch of the Toddy Workers Union.
It belongs to the Centre of Indian Trade Unions. He said that he had read
newspaper reports about a Toddy Corporation, but the union had received no
details of the policy. “I cannot comment unless I can read a draft,” he
said.
Like
Vijaykumar, he admitted the sale of toddy has been declining. “One of the main
reasons is that people are opting for other drinks because the kick is much
faster,” he said. “The younger generation prefers drugs like heroin and
marijuana. These youngsters want an instant high. That is not possible by
drinking toddy. It takes time for the kick to happen. But the youth are
impatient.”
Asked
about the clientele, Murali says, “They are mostly old people who belong to a
different generation.”
The
daily wages for a worker in a toddy shop are Rs 470. This has remained static
for the past four years. “Without a steady income, the owners cannot raise
salaries,” he said.
Murali
paused and said, “The future does not look rosy.”
(Published in News9Live.com)