Mohinder Singh, part-owner of the ‘Sethi Da Dhaba’, put out a reel in Malayalam celebrating the 10th anniversary of the restaurant. The reel went viral and brought focus to the restaurant and the family
By Shevlin Sebastian
To celebrate the 10th
anniversary of his restaurant, ‘Sethi Da Dhaba’ in Kochi, Mohinder Singh put
out a reel. In it, he tells the story, in Malayalam, about how the restaurant
began and the type of food that is served.
Mohinder said that they don’t
use ajinomoto, colours, harmful chemicals, palm oil or groundnuts. “The food
should be healthy, apart from being tasty,” he said, and added, “The most
popular cuisine among Malayalis is Punjabi.”
To Mohinder’s surprise, the
video went viral. It boosted the restaurant’s visibility and drew new
customers. The biggest shock for viewers was to see a Punjabi speak Malayalam
fluently.
Malayalis worldwide, from the
USA to Australia, called him and expressed their shock and admiration for his
linguistic skills. One man said, “It feels like a dream.”
Mohinder said his fluency in
Malayalam happened by accident. As a child, he was mischievous. Many schools
expelled him because of his indiscipline. In the end, he landed up at St.
Albert’s School. The students comprised local Malayalis, who were more fluent
in the vernacular language than English. So Mohinder learned to speak Malayalam
like a native.
At the restaurant, Mohinder
confirmed that 90 percent of his customers are Malayalis. “We have earned the
trust of customers,” he said.
Mohinder paused and said, “We
are doing this as a tribute to our mother. We want to make her happy. Hence, we
are determined to provide the highest quality of food. That way, we will
receive the blessings of our parents.”
The genesis of the
restaurant
In 2013, Mohinder’s mother,
Satwant Kaur, a foodie, almost lost her life because of a cardiac ailment. When
she recovered, she told her sons that she had a dream. They should start a
restaurant in Kochi that serves authentic Punjabi dishes. Her husband was in
the automobile business. None of the four sons knew anything about the
restaurant business.
On the morning of January 1,
2014, Satwant told Mohinder she was feeling unwell and needed to go to the
hospital.
Mohinder, who was celebrating
New Year’s Day, said, “Mother, there’s nothing to worry about. You are
fine.”
That night, the 72-year-old died
of a heart attack in front of Mohinder. Guilt crushed him. He had been looking
after his parents for 25 years. So, this lapse became unforgivable. After
reflection, he decided he would try meditation or exercise. He adopted
weightlifting and did it for a few hours every day.
Every month he would go to Hazur
Sahib, one of five takhts (religious centres in Sikhism. The shrine is located
in Nanded, Maharashtra.
It took him five years to
overcome his sorrow. “I have to thank my family for their steadfast support,”
he said. “Weightlifting also helped me.”
During this time, Mohinder made
a promise to himself. He would fulfill his mother’s dream.
On February 24, 2015, Mohinder,
along with his brother Manjit, started the ‘Sethi Da Dhaba’ restaurant in
Kochi.
At that time, Punjabi cuisine
was not in the forefront of the cuisine palate of Malayalis. Many were sceptical
about whether the venture would be a success. Mohinder tried to increase their
chances by bringing cooks from North India. Initially, there was only a trickle
of customers. But the brothers never gave up. Slowly, through word of mouth,
the restaurant’s name spread. Today, ‘Sethi Da Dhaba’ is one of the leading
eating places for Punjabi cuisine in Kochi.
The Menu
On a bustling Monday afternoon,
the restaurant boasted a crowd of varying ages. On one side sat a senior
citizen, savouring a plate of chicken seekh kebab and crisp parathas. In the
middle were two career professionals, wearing ties and crisp white shirts
sharing a meal. And on the other side, there was a middle-aged woman with two
children in tow. Mohinder had a radiant smile, as he moved between the tables,
chatting with the guests.
On the walls, there are
typewriters hanging, and paintings of farmers, trees and cows. A jeep bonnet
and tyres sit in an enclosure, while an old radio with black knobs rests on a
glass shelf. In one corner, one can see a green and white Bajaj Chetak scooter.
Placed near the entrance is a photo of the Golden Temple.
“My brother Manjit has a passion
for collecting antiques,” said Mohinder.
The yellow ceiling lights cast a
cosy warmth, while the aroma of tandoor-cooked dishes set the taste buds in
motion.
In the reel, Mohinder spoke
about a new dish called Maharaja’s Chicken. This dish was served to Maharaja
Ranjit Singh (1780-1839) by his head chef, or khansama, Beliram. He was
regarded as the best cook of that era.
A few months ago, when Mohinder
and his family went to Patiala, they met a fifth-generation descendant of
Beliram. They had a conversation and got the recipe for the dish.
The chef marinates and grills
the chicken in the tandoor for 25 minutes. Then, he cooks it in oil with fried
onions, curd, and gravy, along with ghee. The cooks prepare the dish as a
semi-gravy. “We introduced this about a month ago,” said Mohinder. “It’s become
very popular.”
One of their most popular items
is the Patiala Lassi. They serve it in a one-litre glass. It comprises curd,
cardamom powder, sugar, pieces of almonds and pistachios. The taste is
exceptional.
Other items include Chicken
Malai Tikka, Mutton Seekh Kabab, Amritsari Fish, Dal Makhana and assorted rotis
and parathas.
Asked about the cooking methods,
Mohinder said that they follow the traditional way. So when they make a dal,
they keep the pulses in the tandoor (a large oven made of clay) the previous
night. They let it simmer, on a low flame, till the morning. For mutton, they
use goat, not sheep, which is what most restaurants serve.
Asked the secret of good
cooking, Mohinder said, “Whatever you do, do it from the heart. Your intention
should be pure. When you do things from the heart, you get blessings,
appreciation, and peace of mind. The mind is always manipulative. In the
service sector, if you use only the mind, you cannot survive.”
Mohinder said their aim was that
when anybody came into the restaurant, they should leave with a smile.
The reviews on Trip Advisor have
been good. Patron Varun Kodoth wrote: ‘Very delicious food. The food tastes
awesome. We had Paneer Tikka Masala, Roti and Naan. Everything was perfect. The
staff were truly helpful. Don’t forget to try the sweet Lassi.’
Nita A wrote: ‘Truly Punjabi.
The taste, aroma, and ambience was complimented very well by Mohinderji who was
an excellent host.’
Many people wanted to take a
franchisee, but the brothers are unsure whether the restaurateurs could
maintain the Dhaba’s high standards.
“The problem with the restaurant
sector is that people cut costs and end up compromising on quality,” said
Mohinder.
While Manjit oversees the
kitchen, Mohinder is the one who interacts with the customers. On average he
interacts with 5000 people every week.
Mohinder admitted that
constantly coming into contact with the positive and negative energies of
people is difficult. “People’s facial expressions and behaviour reflect the
tensions in their lives,” he said.
Every night, before he goes to
sleep, he does heartfulness meditation. “In this meditation, I can cleanse my
emotions and purify myself,” said Mohinder. “When your heart is pure, you
attract positive energy.” Mohinder advises every entrepreneur to follow the
spiritual path.
Asked about the mindset of the
Malayali, Mohinder said, “Once you gain the trust of a Malayali, he will always
believe you. Sometimes, customers will tell me, ‘Sardarji, we are six people.
You know how much quantity we will need. Bring what you like.’”
Mohinder ensures he brings a
little less, so all the food is eaten. “You should not take their trust for
granted,” he said.
Sometimes, there are humorous
interactions. One film director said that in the two Mollywood superhits,
‘Punjabi House,’ and ‘Mallu Singh,’ Malayali actors played the role of
Punjabis. “They were ‘duplicate’ Sardarjis,” the director said. “Now we want to
put an authentic Sardarji like you in a film when there is a Punjabi
character.”
The director and Mohinder shared
a laugh.
Thanks to their integrity and
wholesomeness, today, the family has a sterling reputation. But this reputation
was first established by their father, Harbansji Singh Sethi.
Family Roots
Mohinder’s father, Harbansji, an
IAS officer, was a senior officer of the Food Corporation of India at
Chandigarh. One day, in 1964, Pachakari Mohammed, a prominent iron dealer from
Kochi, met Harbansji in his office. They developed a rapport. Mohammed invited
Harbansji to come to Kerala for a visit. In 1965, Harbansji took up the offer
and came to Kochi. “My father liked Kerala a lot with its greenery and peaceful
environment,” said Mohinder.
Kochi was also a burgeoning hub
for trade.
Harbansji had an itch to go into
business. His father had been an entrepreneur all his life. Mohammed encouraged
Harbansji. He gave Harbansji an apartment for the family to stay. He took no
rent for the next two years. And he provided logistical and other support,
too.
Harbansji took medical leave. He
started a business in automobile parts called ‘Bombay Auto Agency’. There was a
struggle in the beginning, but soon it took off. So Harbansji quit the IAS.
The family comprised his wife,
four sons, and a daughter.
In 2006, Harbansji died
at the age of 74. The shop is being run by the eldest son, Surinder. The
youngest son Gurjeet is also running a spare parts shop.
As for Mohinder, he is married
to Pawanjit Kaur, from Hyderabad. He has two sons, Sunny and Bunny. Sunny, 24,
has settled in Toronto. Bunny is assisting his father in the restaurant.
All in all, it has been a good life
for Mohinder. He is a man who deeply enjoys his work, and loves the
interactions with a wide variety of people.
At the
‘Sethi Da Dhaba’, amidst the clatter of steel plates, Mohinder leaned forward
and gently placed his fingers on the glass frame of the Golden Temple
photo.
“God has been kind,” he said.
Box:
We are
one
In many
states people are agitating that their language should become the primary one.
Mohinder Singh said, “All languages are beautiful. We should respect them all.
It reflects the cultural diversity of the country. And the more languages one
learns, the more enriched we become.”
He paused
and said, “Kerala is a beacon in this regard. The people respect our Punjabi
language and culture. And vice versa. This is a state that welcomes all Indians
with an open heart and kind words. All states should be like this. In the end,
we are Indians irrespective of whether we are Punjabi, Gujarati, Bengali,
Malayali or Tamilian. I am the best example of this integration.”
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